Monday, May 2, 2011

My Report on 2011

As 2011 gets underway, experts are looking at the growing influence of environmental events, policies on energy and transportation, among other issues, are being shaped by environmental developments.  As the global financial crisis takes hold and awareness of climate change increases, more nations and companies are trying to invest in alternatives. 
In pollution hotspots such as London, air particles could be cutting vulnerable people's lives short by nine years, says the committee. Fifty-thousand people a year may be dying prematurely because of air pollution, a influential committee of MPs has reported after a six-month investigation. Car models that are all electric or plug in hybrids will hit the market this year.  This is the forward thinking that we need, to be both environmentally friendly to stop the polluting and to avoid the rising fuel prices.
We are now recovering from the the recession slowly with the Gross domestic product being predicted to increase by 2.5pc in 2011. Living in a society where we are bailing out our own banks with the threat of UK banks may need a government-funded bailout in 2011 due to an emerging funding gap of £25bn a month, the New Economics Foundation warns. 
The UK today is multicultural and this is having an effect on our own culture, with households in the West are increasingly multi-ethnic. This is creating all kinds of cultural tensions and reactions that are not always consistent.
In 2011 there is many subcultures that are well none, such as Chavs, Goths and Emos, that are predominately outlined by their fashion. But now their are subcultures emerging that are created by our behavior such as the “ladette” subculture which has come from a combination of socially accepted heavy weekend binge drinking and uninhibited sex. Is this a subculture we want to be apart of?
Technology is continuing to jump leaps and bounds, particularly communication platforms, the intensive use of the web as a discussion medium through blogs and other forums, neither companies nor individuals can control what is written about them, will this become an escalating problem? 
As the baby-boomers reach retirement age, there will be a boom in the percentage of pensioners. A trend may emerge which will see the senior generation increasingly deciding to stay or return to the workplace, either because they want to or because they need to.
Today’s government is adapting to the people of now by creating the Big Society this is the flagship mission statement of the coalition government. The aim is to empower local people and communities to solve local problems for themselves, taking power away from politicians and giving it to the people. 
This year has already seen the turn of some major events, the royal wedding has created good economy for many business.  Obama has successes the killing Osama bin Laden who has been his top counter-terrorism priority since he took office. The Libyan leader, Colonel Muammar Gaddafi looses control of his country as protests break out, tearing the country apart.
 Eligible voters will be asked if they would like to change the method of electing MPs from the First Past the Post System to the Alternative Vote System. Under the AV system voters rank candidates in order of preference and a 50 per cent majority is required in order for a candidate to be elected. If Britain selects AV their will be 'extra expense of counting votes'. Is this the way forward?
What changes are we going to see, will the predictions for this year be correct?
The Observer, Sunday 27 December 2009, Available at URL:http://www.guardian.co.uk/culture/2009/dec/27/the-hotlist-2010 (Assessed: 29/04/2011).
Hilary White, Family Life Intonational, August 24, 2010, Available at URL: http://www.flionline.org/index.php/publication/article/151-uks-hard-drinking-ladette-subculture-40-per-cent-more-likely-to-abort.html(Assessed: 29/04/2011).
Nikolai, Darkademic, 2011, Available at URL: http://www.darkademic.co.uk/articles/british-youth-subcultures(Assessed: 29/04/2011)
Anup Shah, Global Issues, March 6th 2011, Available at URL:  http://www.globalissues.org/article/595/energy-security (Assessed: 29/04/2011).
Politics UK, BBC World Service, Sat 8 Jan 2011, Available at URL: http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p00ctvsz(Assessed: 29/04/2011).
James Kirkup, The Telegraph,1st may 2011, Available at URL: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/politics/(Assessed: 02/05/2011).
The Telegraph, 1st May 2011, Available at URL: http://swampland.time.com/2011/05/02/political-vindacation-in-obamas-bin-laden-speech/(Assessed: 02/05/2011).
Michael Grunwald, The Swampland, 2nd May 2011, Available at URL:http://swampland.time.com/2011/05/02/political-vindication-in-obamas-bin-laden-speech/(Assessed: 02/05/2011).
John Vidal, Guardian, 22nd March 2011, Available at URL:http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2010/mar/22/air-pollution-deaths (Assessed: 02/05/2011).
Daily Mail Reporter, Daily Mail, 22nd March 2010, Available at URL:http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1259592/UK-air-pollution-killing-50-000-people-year-warn-MPs.html(Assessed: 02/05/2011).

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Designer Profile: Ossie Clark



Ossie wears one of his silk crepe shirts with a one side collar and a jumper knitted by his mother.



I have decided after looking through the magazines and our presentation on the 1960’s to look into one of the designers in more depth from this era rather than a modern one as this would be more in keeping into what we have already been working on. I have got my resources from the internet and books, all the images are from a book created by Judith Watt.

Cream silk chiffon blouse with a combination of patterns. 1969
Celia's Drawing 1969

Ossie Clark really named Raymond, was an amazing designer whom in his productive years coincided with London's most optimistic, rule breaking period.Born in Liverpool, when studying in London he was singled out by Vogue in their 1965 issue at just the age of 23 studying at Royal College of Art, this in it's self marked the kind of designer he was thought to be. 


Ossie Clark really named Raymond, was an amazing designer whom in his productive years coincided with London's most optimistic, rule breaking period.Born in Liverpool, when studying in London he was singled out by Vogue in their 1965 issue at just the age of 23 studying at Royal College of Art, this in it's self marked the kind of designer he was thought to be. 



His work is particularly known for his real understanding of the female form. His tailoring skills were apparent in all of his works, and his work was thought to look effortless. Wether he was working with materials such as suede, leather or lighter weight fabrics such as wool, chiffon and silks which became his signature pieces, due to how effortlessly elegant and sophisticated the outcomes looked, but above all his clothes were feminine.
Ossie's fashion drawing for the coat above.

Ossie with Chrissie Shrimptom, who wears his quilted coat in Robert Indiana Op-Art fabric. 1965

Cream chiffon dress with purple floral print, 1970.
Collection of Alfrend Radley

Twiggy models one of Ossie's chiffon dresses. 

Ossie Clark was the first young British designer's work to be exported to New York. Ossie Clark took influence from nature: trees, flowers, the moon, stars, colour and natural forms, this all excited him and his aim was to create beauty in his work. The brilliance behind his work lay in his ability to understand form and proportion and achieve it through cut and fabric.

Ossie Clark’s big success came when he collaborated with textile designer Ceila Birtwell in 1965, whom later became his wife. Celia’s work was based around bold busy prints that complimented Ossie Clark’s sophisticated clean cut style to tailoring. Their collections were just up the the young fashion conscious youths of the 1960’s street, keeping the designs in trend but with an innovative twist.
 Ossie Clark's idol was the famous dancer Nijinsky and his love of dance inspired his clothes to be free moving and not to restrict the female form. This style of dressing became quite popular in the 1970’s thanks in large part to the popularity of Clark's clothing. Ossie Clark is well known for his use of muted colours and moss crepe fabric. He also designed shoes, paper dresses, and snakeskin jackets.
Ossie's yellow crepe trousers and chiffon top. 1971

Ossie's sketch of ruffled chiffon dress with tie neck. 

He quickly began to make his mark in the fashion industry after graduation from London’s Royal College of Art, with Alice Pollock's exclusive boutique Quorum featuring his designs in 1966. Ossie presented a collection of white and cream chiffon garments that sold fast.



Radely took over Quorum's debts, after the love of the work and not for business took it tole. Alfred Radley was keen to maintain what made Ossie special and so he continued to support Ossie's aspirations by developing the Ossie Clark Brand and funding large annual fashion shows, expanding Quorum's retail business and distributing Ossie's dresses to leading retailers around the world, this was the beginning of making the Ossie Clark brand available to thousands of ordinary people.

Ossie's romantic shoot with a white chiffon dress with Celia's black and green clover-leaf design is worn by model Helga James. The old fashioned covered buttons with handmade loops were typical of Ossie. 1969

Over the year’s Ossie Clark’s creations have earned him some renowned clients  such as: Twiggy, Penelope Tree, Marianne Faithfull, Talitha Getty, Bianca Jagger, Jean Shrimpton, Elizabeth Taylor and Liza Minnelli, whom all would attend his theatrical events. His friendships were very influential and did a lot for his brand.
Going into the 1980s, Ossie Clark's romantic flowing gowns were no longer in fashion. His fortunes declined to bankruptcy and Ossie Clark largely stopped working commercially. His bitterness at this and a short-sighted determination to sit out the bankruptcy term, meant he worked only on private commissions which were paid for by barter. A loyal band of famous clients and friends would order a dress and pay for it by loaning a holiday house in the Caribbean or paying for his sewing machine to be repaired.
Celia's Drawing 1969
After a low in his carrier due to the mixture of relationships and drugs. He made a come back in the early 1990s he trained the designer Bella Freud to pattern-cut and an extremely promising new beginning was the use of Clark's mastery of pattern cutting chiffon and delicate fabrics by the Ghost label. Clark found their computerised pattern cutter a revelation, able to turn initial ideas into formers almost instantaneously.

Classic Ossie Clark photo shoot. 
I found looking at Ossie Clark in more detail really inspiring, this is because of his skills, his eye and ability put together changed fashion through that era, dressing stars such as the Beatles. I have also found it interesting looking at his free and fluid designs, this is something I am going to try in my next project as I think this style may suit me. 





I found looking at Ossie Clark in more detail really inspiring, this is because of his skills, his eye and ability put together changed fashion through that era, dressing stars such as the Beatles. I have also found it interesting looking at his free and fluid designs, this is something I am going to try in my next project as I think this style may suit me. 



Wikipedia, (2010), Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ossie_Clark(Accessed: 19th April 2011)
celiabirtwel,(2008), Available at:http://www.celiabirtwell.com/ossieclark/(Accessed: 19th April 2011)
British Style Genius, (2011),BBC,Available at:http://www.bbc.co.uk/britishstylegenius/content/21805.shtml (Accessed: 19th April 2011)
Fashion model directory,(2011), Available at:http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/ossie-clark/(Accessed: 19th April 2011)


Boudicca

Boudicca is a label with two designers Zowie Broach and Brian Kirkby created and named after a British warrior. They are a global label who have done innovative work in both couture and and ready-to-wear lines. And we have been lucky enough to get a lecture with Zowie from the label. 

I thought meeting Zowie from Boudicca was really influencing and inspiring. The ethos that Boudicca has developed due lack of financing and not wanting to sell out and dilute their message is what I find so influencing when I had began to feel that my fashion work had become too much of a box ticking exercise rather than actually creating and designing from my heart, but listening to how Zowie ad worked it really has made me want to get the balance so that my work can stand out and be the statement I am looking for whilst still getting the marks needed to pass my course. 
I found it really influencing that they don’t look into what other designers are doing and that  their work is completely what they are feeling influenced by in their own creative environment. A lot of their research comes from reading, old essays which is a source I wouldn’t have ever thought of using, so this is something I am going to look into in future projects. 
Their ethos of make and do and mend I think really gives strong character to their work and creates more innovative outcomes, which I think is key to their brand in some respects  as they wouldn’t have generated the outcomes they have if they had, had a generous sponsor. 
I think only being able to buy their retail items in certain stores and having a high price bracket makes it more of a desirable item and keeps a certain status to what they are creating. Having a global brand when hearing Zowie talk about it doesn’t sound as scary as I would have thought it to be, which encourages me to continue to work hard and keep making plans for my business, as i maybe able to one day make it more than I initially thought. 
I really like how they describe the clothing the create, they say how they concentrate on how it feels which I think is a really key and good aspect to concentrate on, if something fits well and you feel good in it you are going to go back for more, this is something again i think as a young designer can get forgotten when trying to concentrate on the appearance, which won’t necessarily bring you the kind of costumer base you are routing for. 
Overall I feel that the presentation was really beneficial and it was something personally I really needed for a creative boost to keep me motivated to work for what I really want. I felt the honesty of their work and the presentation we got was what was so beneficial, being able to look through collection books and sketch books taught us a lot learning how they map out their creative journey and how this can sometimes be putting just words on a page or picking out of one magazine what you think is key. 
  

Below are photographs of the clothes that she brought with her for us to have a look at and try on to get a feel of the making style of their works. 







My Final Power Point Presentation

I have created a power point of about both the size zero craze and how plastic surgery has become acceptable in our society. I have highlighted images and issues that I think are important and have played a key role in our society.

I have found it very interesting looking into this subject as a young fashion designer, as maybe this society does need to change, is it no longer ok to be "normal" is it unattractive if we don't follow these trends?

I do find it scary that some of the models that have been on the catwalk, have been near death due to anorexia and wanting to get as many jobs as possible, and thought this was the way? Are we as designers causing this?

Below is my PowerPoint, I have really enjoyed creating, as I think it has really made me question what is going on today in the industry and what part I will be playing later on in my design career.



















2000's PowerPoint Research

As I began to look into celebrity culture I soon began to see that two aspects of it stood out the most, which were plastic surgery and this need to not age and have the perfect body and the scary size zero phase, that seamed to begin during the 2000's. 

I got my research from a number areas but I found this documentary below really informative and interesting. The documentary is about journalist Dawn Porter being asked by the BBC to go on the size zero diet for two months to see if she can achieve this scary celebrity look. I found aspects of this programme really interesting such as the attitudes in LA about size, where woman openly admit to not eating to be a size zero. 
I have put the URL addresses clips below that I found on YouTube from the documentary.

I found a number of articles that had been written in the 2000's which were about woman self loathing themselves, because of how the media portrays how amazing the celebrity's look and what an achievement it is that they have got their bikini bodies back in two weeks. 

E.g. Women in the Noughties: Self-Loathing & Scared?
By Hannah Mudge

Decade in review: You are a very Noughtie - and unhappy - girl


What were women thinking? They wanted shoes, bags, Botox and boys. But did it make them happy? Time to get real
Camilla Long


When researching for more in depth information about plastic surgery I found some interesting statistics as to the quantity's of people having procedure that are cosmetic, this is not including cosmetic surgery after n accident in the United States. 



The numbers are from 2009 and the results are very interesting, and a little scary as to how many people are following these procedure's to be "Perfect". This makes you wonder if they have all been effected by what they see in the media, as some of the articles suggest. 


Minimally invasive cosmetic procedures rose 1 percent, to nearly 11 million, in 2009, and were up 99 percent since 2000. The top ones in 2009 were:
  1. Botulinum toxic type A (Botox), 4.8 million.
  2. Soft tissue fillers, 1.7 million.
  3. Chemical peels, 1.1 million.
  4. Microdermabrasion (removing dead skin), 910,000.
  5. Laser hair removal, 893,000.




Cosmetic surgical procedures fell 9 percent in 2009, with more than 1.5 million performed. Surgical procedures are down 20 percent since 2000. The top five surgical procedures in 2009 were:
  1. Breast enlargement, 289,000.
  2. Nose reshaping, 256,000.
  3. Liposuction, 198,000
  4. Tummy Tuck, 115,000



As well as finding all of my interesting facts I also came across this artist that had put the ideas and negativity of celebrity plastic surgery into a tapestry piece.
 Lisa Borgnes, Los Feliz blogger, takes this large scale with her show “Stitching Up the Noughties” at ACME Gallery.



In her work, she aims to continue that narrative of a traditional 19th century tapestry, but through the prism of a 21st century lens. Instead of a subject matter like religion, domesticity and morality, her stitched samplers explore the preoccupations of the last decade (the ‘Noughties’): things like Botox, plastic surgery, ‘It’ bags and the recession.